The car was picked up last Thursday and should be here at the end of this week. First on, last off, the carrier is based in Phoenix.
So I have been very happy with my purchase, a car which nearly meets my specs for what I consider a good price. Note the paint is not perfect, and a few dings don't bother me at all, and nice upholstery is nice, but some small problems with it won't bother me at all. That is just the way I am about cosmetics, and I intend to allow many children to hop in for a picture behind the wheel.
But I am finicky about the mechanical aspects. The seller offered to get it running for me, I asked him to just let it sleep so I get it just like when he last turned it off. Anyone can get a car with compression running, nothing to it. I don't just want it running, I want it as well lubricated as I can get it before even turning it over slowly with the crank. That is just the way I am about mechanicals.
I pour lots of MMO into the cylinders, remove the oil pan inspection plate and squirt oil everywhere, remove the transmission inspection plate and spray oil everywhere, suction the oil from the rear and replace it with Lubriplate, remove the shiftlock assembly and oil it up well, repack the wheel bearings front and rear, grease every grease fitting, oil every cup, and load up the universal joint with grease. To my way of thinking, lubrication is key to longevity in a T, I even start mine, run them until warm, and drive them a few blocks at least once a week in the winter. I think it is good for them.
I also drain the radiator and fill it with white vinegar, remove clean and clean the wiring at every terminal, and satisfy myself that nothing is so worn as to need replacing. This process will probably take a few weeks, but when I am done I will know the condition of the car and feel safe driving it. It will take a week of the internal lubrication with slow hand cranking starting after a few days. Clean up is always messy too, I start with a couple of bags of the stuff that soaks up oil covered with cardboard and several drain pans. A lot of oil gets on the floor, but that is unavoidable when I am spraying copious amounts into the block from the oil pan inspection cover.
This is probably overkill, but it is the way I do it, I don't want to just get it running, I want to get it running after I have it to a point where there is nothing more I can do to lube it short of pulling the engine and rear and taking them apart.
The seller communicated well and he did not attempt to start the car. He had drained the oil and radiator as I requested so there would be no leaks to upset the carrier. I suggested that he remove the keys from the rear wheels and add a little grease, then retighten to allow the wheels to turn freely for moving the car. He replied that the car had an excellent free neutral and could easily be moved by two men, I need not worry about it. The seller drove the car for 15 years, two with the present engine and transmission, and he knows T's. I trusted him to move the car with no problems.
But when it came time to move the car the free neutral was locked up, he had to tow the car and the engine was turning backwards. I am pretty sure he did not have to tow it over 200 yards, but he has not replied to my email asking how far.
I have wheel dollies which I will use to get the car off the trailer, and once off I will remove the axle keys before moving the car around.
Is there any particular damage I should look for and should I change my start up procedure?
Technology, the solution to all of our problems... and the cause of most of them.